A Hat-Trick Summit of
Nanga Parbat
 |
| Ali Sadpara, Photo by: Alex Txikon |
Ali Sadpara, born 1977, a Pakistani Mountaineer cum High Altitute
Porter, reached the summit of Nanga Parbat 8,125m for the first time in winter
season along with Italian Alpinist Simone Moro and Spanish Alex Txikon on 26th
February, 2016. This was his record 3rd time to conquer the Killer
Mountain from the Kinshofer route on Diamer Face; in total he has made 6 ascents of four achttausanders
located in Pakistan including K2/Chogori in 2004, Gasherbrum-II in 2006,
Gasherbrum-I in 201o.
Ali Sadpara is very little known alpinist in Pakistan; even
at his home particularly Gilgit-Baltistan. He began his mountaineering career
as a low altitude porter in 2000 before
that he used to live from extracting marble in Balochistan and selling it in
Karachi. Although, started as a mean to earn a living, he soon
discovered his great affection for mountains and climbing. “I always feel happy
in the mountains. Since the day when I got to know about them for the first
time and worked as a porter, it has always been my desire to climb them. Now I
could make money easily in Sadpara – village – or in Skardu – main town in the
area–, or even in Islamabad, but I feel happy here (in the mountains).” He told
during an interview with Alex Txikon in 2015.
Unlike Sherpas in Nepal, the local
High Altitude Porters came into known after Nanga Parbat maiden summit in 1953;
in which high altitude porters from Hunza were hired by the expedition. “I have
always climbed a mountain by putting my feet in someone others boot” said,
Pakistani Mountaineer Nazir Sabir, during a session. In Pakistan Mountaineering
is very less interested subject but for Ali and many others it’s the only hope or source
of income generation. During his 16 years of mountaineering career, he had
worked with more than 16 expeditions - fixing ropes and making ways for them.
He made some other important
climbing activities that deserve appreciation. In 2006 he reached, alone,
Spantik 7,027m summit after opening a new route. In 2008 and 2010 winters he
fixed Broad Peak route up to Camp 3 for the polish team; and did so in 2012
winter in Gasherbrum-I; equipped Japanese Couloir from Camp 2 to Camp 3.
Ali Sadpara is first and the only
Pakistani to climb an eight-thousander in winter.
