“I
use to go into the mountains from my early childhood. I remember, I was 6 when
I went out to the mountains, for the first time, with my late uncle to graze
our cattle. I was fascinated and mesmerized by the breathtaking bird eye view
of my home town from the grazing area. I asked myself how beautiful it would be
- to be on top of the mountain and see the other sides of the world. As times
goes by, it became a routine for me, as it was our tradition to graze cattle in
the winters. I started going to the mountains with my friends taking our cattle
with us. In summers we went to the pastures. The beautiful landscapes and
serenity compel me towards these gigantic Karakorum Mountains.” Sirbaz Khan, 30,
said. He continued. “Whenever I go out in to the mountains it gives me a
spiritual calmness”.
He
started his early education from Government Boys High School, Aliabad Hunza
from where he got his Secondary School Certificate. Then he moved to Karachi
for his further studies. He got his Higher Secondary School Certificate in I.Com
as a private candidate from Karachi. However, he didn’t continue his studies
due to his interests and passion in tourism. “I came back to work in a Tours
Agency, where I was hired as a Mess Boy”. He said. A mess boy is an important
one in a trekking and expedition group. He provides food and carried out other
refreshment activities for the group members. “During this time, I got an
opportunity to take supplies of (one of the expedition I was travelling with)
to Camp 1 of two 8000’er peaks i.e. Gasherbrum I & II.”
He
started his climbing career in 2016. “My inspiration came from Nazir Sabir (1st
Pakistani to conquer Mount Everest) and Ashraf Aman (1st Pakistani
to conquer K2)”. He added. In 2017 with an international expedition he set off
for first autumn expedition to Nanga Parbat (8,124m). They successfully attempted
the summit on 2nd October, 2017. “On one spot I was suffering from
frostbite in my left foot, I suppose to go down, on the other hand the summit
was very nearer to me. I hearten myself and push for the summit, I was praying
in heart.” He declared. Also known as the Killer Mountain “Nanga Parbat” has a
unique geology for climbers. Its Kinshofer route displays an 80 degree straight
wall, which is the most challenging route.
Recently
he conquers mount K2 the second highest peak in the world. K2 has claimed more
lives than any other peak in the world. It seduces the climbers by its
exceptional pyramid style outlook. It has also nicked as the most treacherous
and notorious peak. “Till camp 4 K2 is mostly rocky and we have to cross
House’s Chimney and ladders. At times the rocks became true vertical as in
a wall in a house – 90 degrees. The next challenge was to cross hanging
vertical ice - Bottleneck couloir. A group member fell down in front of me on
bottleneck, he was exhausted and loss his mental control, I was lucky that I
summit K2 without supplementary oxygen.” He exclaimed. A climber must have
physical and mental strength to go up to such heights. “Initially my family was
not happy with me; they were asking me to join public sector job. Now they are
satisfied with my work.” He sighed. If someone has true passion in doing
something he can achieve his goals. On 24th July, 2018 he reaches
the summit. To be a good climber one need to have interest, patience, hard work
and of course team work.
Apart
from his sports career he was an active member of Ismaili Boys Scouts. His
voluntary services to the community are remarkable. As AKYSB sports player he
has participated in Golden Jubilee Games in Volleyball and Athletics. He has
represented Hunza in many national events like JOSH and DJ games. His services
to promote mountaineering in the region are extraordinary. He has trained tens
of female youth in rock climbing who also participated in the national wall
climbing event. “I am a firm believer that these young girls can excel their
career in a fine mountaineering field. They can break the rational mindset of
people towards women.”
“My
mission is to work for these girls – so they can have a good platform for their
future endeavors.” He insisted. In Gilgit-Baltistan people particularly girls
are still forced to choose their careers by their guardians. People have
different interests and goals; they must be encouraged to choose whatever they
want.
The first-ever winter ascent on Batura I, aka Saddle Peak, the 25th highest peak in the world (7,795 meters a.s.l.) located in the Batura Muztagh, western Karakoram
range has been abandoned from its North Face reachable from Passu
through Batura Glacier. The 8 member polish team will try to attempt the
peak from its South Face located in the Batokushi, Muchuhar valley, accessible from Hassanabad, Hunza. 
